HB&B Blog — Claire Bullen

Wine & Food Killers: Burrata and Mortadella Sandwiches with Pistachio Pesto and Podere Pradarolo Indocilis Rosso 2020

Claire Bullen Italy Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Red wine Sparkling wine

Wine & Food Killers: Burrata and Mortadella Sandwiches with Pistachio Pesto and Podere Pradarolo Indocilis Rosso 2020

Some of the very best things are simple. Sun on a winter morning after weeks of rain. A well-made cup of coffee, served at exactly the right temperature. Dinner with good friends. And a glass of well-made sparkling red wine, with all the richness of its hue and all the levity of high carbonation. Podere Pradarolo’s Indocilis Rosso is just such a wine. Hailing from near Parma in Emilia Romagna, this vino rosso frizzante looks almost like a kriek when it’s poured, glugging into the glass with a big souffle of pink foam before eventually settling down into hissing merriment. It is made from 100% Barbera...

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The Beer Lover's Table: Gorgonzola Risotto with Caramelised Shallots and Radicchio and Elusive Brewing Sunset City American Barley Wine

Barley Wine Beer Lover's Table Claire Bullen Elusive Brewing

The Beer Lover's Table: Gorgonzola Risotto with Caramelised Shallots and Radicchio and Elusive Brewing Sunset City American Barley Wine

Compared with the abundance of summer, February's menu can seem mean, lacking. It is the season of hardened root vegetables, unyielding and caked with earth. All those parsnips and swedes rolling around in barren larders. It is the season of the leek, my least-favourite allium. But if February has a saving grace, it is radicchio. Phoenician-purple or dusty rose, feathered or curled into tight fingers, radicchio is deeply bitter – the way that February’s chill used to be – though it mellows when caramelised with butter and a splash of balsamic vinegar. I liked Natoora’s recent suggestion that we all gift bouquets...

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Wine & Food Killers: Borscht and Tenuta Foresto La Ideale 2019

Claire Bullen Italy Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Red wine

Wine & Food Killers: Borscht and Tenuta Foresto La Ideale 2019

The first time I ever had borscht, it was at Veselka in New York City, it was 2am, and it was snowing. Veselka is a downtown institution, a Ukrainian restaurant that’s been serving NYU students and drunks and New Yorkers of every stripe since 1954 (even if, slightly tragically, it’s currently no longer open for 24 hours). I’d ordered a plate of pierogi on the side, and I was definitely a little bit tipsy – the bowl when it arrived was the same bruised shade as my impending hangover. But when I brought it to my lips it was deep and soulful and alive,...

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Wine & Food Killers: Vietnamese Venison Stew and Idlewild The Bird Flora & Fauna

Claire Bullen Idlewild Wines Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Red wine US

Wine & Food Killers: Vietnamese Venison Stew and Idlewild The Bird Flora & Fauna

In her recent book, Cook, Eat, Repeat, Nigella Lawson shares “a defence of brown food”, both a celebration of unlovely-looking but joyous-tasting stews and braises, and a rebuttal against the high-gloss of Instagram food aesthetics. “So much of what we prize in life, in people, in food, in our surroundings, is such a mixture of mess and beauty,” she commented as a follow-up in the New Yorker. I can relate to that sentiment: Has any time felt more like a mix of hope and gloom, glow and darkness, as the dawn of 2022? Mess and beauty is everywhere, and so it might...

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The Beer Lover's Table: Lemon and Almond Waffles with Cardamom Maple Whipped Cream and Gipsy Hill Squashed Peach Bellini Sour

Alcohol-free Beer Lover's Table Claire Bullen gipsy hill SE London Sour

The Beer Lover's Table: Lemon and Almond Waffles with Cardamom Maple Whipped Cream and Gipsy Hill Squashed Peach Bellini Sour

If there’s anything I dread more than January’s arrival – its short, gloomy days; its long, cold nights; the lingering post-party malaise – it’s the annual Dry January discourse that accompanies it. No matter whether you choose to forsake all alcohol for 31 days or plan a wet Tryanuary to remember, you are still likely to be met with the admonitions of reproving strangers. Me, I like to sit on the sidelines. If I have any stance, it is that whether or not you choose to drink this month, you should still treat yourself to special, delicious things in order...

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