As I write this, fat snowflakes are falling outside my window and the lavender hue of the waning daylight makes it clear just how frigid it is. It is an...
The time of year has come when I want all my meals to feel like early-evening snacks enjoyed in some Southern European country. If I catch the light in my...
Once, I was asked to write an article about pairing beer with comfort food. I found the brief tough. After all, what is comfort food? For most of us, the...
There’s nothing like summer to remind you of the joy of simplicity. This is the season of the ingredient, of the stripped-back and uncooked. The best-eaten-raw, the garnished-only-with-salt. Of heirloom tomatoes...
I’ve come around on Valentine’s Day. February is short on festive feeling; why not take the opportunity to make a special occasion out of what would otherwise be another grey Wednesday?...
Some of the very best things are simple. Sun on a winter morning after weeks of rain. A well-made cup of coffee, served at exactly the right temperature. Dinner with good friends....
The first time I ever had borscht, it was at Veselka in New York City, it was 2am, and it was snowing. Veselka is a downtown institution, a Ukrainian restaurant that’s been serving NYU...
Weekends right now are strange. For me, they’ve become long, often empty blocks of time, flattened without the normal pace of pubs, get-togethers with pals and general hubbub. Now, instead...
This Thanksgiving, I roasted a chicken instead of a turkey. I reduced the myriad sides down to two dishes – crunchy, golden roast potatoes and green beans with shallots and...
Early September is always a period of in-between, a time of shift and recalibration. The body has stored up memories of all those years of back-to-school returns. An autumnal...
We've entered the time of year when turning on the oven feels like death; when the heat makes any kitchen project that takes more than 30 minutes unbearable. Right now,...
If champagne and fried chicken is an iconic high-low pairing, then it follows that pet nat and popcorn prawns should be, too. Both are crisp and buoyant – albeit in...
Piedmont is probably the most consistently premium wine region in Italy. Spread over rolling hills between Turin and Genoa, it is one of the few regions in Italy where most...