HB&B Blog — Natural wine

Wine & Food Killers: Shrimp Étouffée and Fin Wines I’m All Ears Pet Nat 2021

Australia Claire Bullen Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Pet Nat

Wine & Food Killers: Shrimp Étouffée and Fin Wines I’m All Ears Pet Nat 2021

Alongside gumbo and jambalaya, shrimp étouffée is a stalwart of Cajun and Creole cooking, and a classic New Orleans dish. Étouffée means “smothered” in French, and in this dish, pink prawns are enrobed in a saucy stew made with a base of the “Cajun holy trinity” – onion, celery, and green bell pepper – and a burnished roux, mixed with chillis and a potent Cajun spice mix, chopped tomatoes and fish stock. That mix is cooked down until thickened and glossy, served with rice, then garnished with handfuls of parsley. I tend to crave New Orleans-style cooking at this time...

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Wine & Food Killers: Oyster Mushroom, Wild Garlic and Chipotle Quesadillas with Kindeli Tinto 2020

Claire Bullen Natural wine Natural Wine Killers New Zealand Red wine

Wine & Food Killers: Oyster Mushroom, Wild Garlic and Chipotle Quesadillas with Kindeli Tinto 2020

If I am guilty of one thing every spring, it is of losing my shit over the annual return of wild garlic. I’m aware that I make a slightly parodic picture: The wayward urban forager who runs to that secret patch in the local woodland armed with a pair of kitchen shears, trying to keep my scarf from collecting too much dirt as I hunch over another patch of those glossy green leaves. But I’m happy looking foolish if it means walking away with a big ziploc bag stuffed with the seasonal bounty, trailed by an allium scent cloud that follows...

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Wine & Food Killers: Burrata and Mortadella Sandwiches with Pistachio Pesto and Podere Pradarolo Indocilis Rosso 2020

Claire Bullen Italy Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Red wine Sparkling wine

Wine & Food Killers: Burrata and Mortadella Sandwiches with Pistachio Pesto and Podere Pradarolo Indocilis Rosso 2020

Some of the very best things are simple. Sun on a winter morning after weeks of rain. A well-made cup of coffee, served at exactly the right temperature. Dinner with good friends. And a glass of well-made sparkling red wine, with all the richness of its hue and all the levity of high carbonation. Podere Pradarolo’s Indocilis Rosso is just such a wine. Hailing from near Parma in Emilia Romagna, this vino rosso frizzante looks almost like a kriek when it’s poured, glugging into the glass with a big souffle of pink foam before eventually settling down into hissing merriment. It is made from 100% Barbera...

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Wine & Food Killers: Borscht and Tenuta Foresto La Ideale 2019

Claire Bullen Italy Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Red wine

Wine & Food Killers: Borscht and Tenuta Foresto La Ideale 2019

The first time I ever had borscht, it was at Veselka in New York City, it was 2am, and it was snowing. Veselka is a downtown institution, a Ukrainian restaurant that’s been serving NYU students and drunks and New Yorkers of every stripe since 1954 (even if, slightly tragically, it’s currently no longer open for 24 hours). I’d ordered a plate of pierogi on the side, and I was definitely a little bit tipsy – the bowl when it arrived was the same bruised shade as my impending hangover. But when I brought it to my lips it was deep and soulful and alive,...

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Wine & Food Killers: Vietnamese Venison Stew and Idlewild The Bird Flora & Fauna

Claire Bullen Idlewild Wines Natural wine Natural Wine Killers Red wine US

Wine & Food Killers: Vietnamese Venison Stew and Idlewild The Bird Flora & Fauna

In her recent book, Cook, Eat, Repeat, Nigella Lawson shares “a defence of brown food”, both a celebration of unlovely-looking but joyous-tasting stews and braises, and a rebuttal against the high-gloss of Instagram food aesthetics. “So much of what we prize in life, in people, in food, in our surroundings, is such a mixture of mess and beauty,” she commented as a follow-up in the New Yorker. I can relate to that sentiment: Has any time felt more like a mix of hope and gloom, glow and darkness, as the dawn of 2022? Mess and beauty is everywhere, and so it might...

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