The time of year has come when I want all my meals to feel like early-evening snacks enjoyed in some Southern European country. If I catch the light in my garden just right – and if I assemble a good quantity of nibbly snacks – I can trick myself into believing I’m genuinely experiencing la hora del vermut or l’heure de l’apéro. The time of year has also come when, driven by the state of my postnuptial finances, I feel particularly inclined to raid my kitchen for pantry staples that can be turned into frugal, tasty meals.
With those joint ambitions in mind, I settled on a new culinary project this week: polenta fries. I’ve enjoyed polenta fries in all shapes and flavours, sold by street food vans and Ottolenghi restaurants alike, but I’d never made them myself – now, I’m questioning why it took me so long. They’re brilliant, easy and adaptable, and a certified crowd-pleaser, especially when they’re shallow-fried rather than baked, which gives them a golden, crunchy exterior and almost creamy interior.
To make my polenta base, I used Felicity Cloake’s ratios as a starting point, but added heaps of Pecorino Romano for salty depth, black pepper for spice and goat cheese for tang. I also opted to serve them with a seasonally appropriate tomato and basil relish. They’re great to snack on on their own, and can also be the star of an aperitif spread – serve with Marcona almonds, gilda skewers or prosciutto to really set the tone.
Of course, no aperitif hour is complete without a refreshing drink, and it’s hard to do better than Tenuta Foresto’s Favonio Moscato. Three days of skin contact is enough to impart a coppery hue to this orange wine, and the texture and structure to help it stand up to fried food. Its flavour feels like pure summer, all dripping stone fruits and buzzing blossoms. What better way to celebrate the return of the best time of the year?
Polenta Fries with Tomato and Basil Relish
Serves 4 as an appetizer
For the polenta fries:
650ml chicken or vegetable stock
125g instant polenta (plus 50g additional to coat)
Freshly ground black pepper
50g Pecorino Romano, finely grated
125g soft goat cheese
250ml (approx.) vegetable oil
For the tomato and basil relish:
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
Fine sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
Leaves from 7-8 thyme sprigs
500g cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 large bunch basil, finely chopped
1. First, grease and line a medium baking or roasting tray (mine measured 23x23 cm) with baking paper. Set aside.
2. Prep the polenta. Place a saucepan over medium-high heat and add the chicken or vegetable stock; heat until simmering. Add the polenta. Whisk constantly for 3–5 minutes, or until it has thickened into a porridge-like consistency.
3. Season the polenta with lots of black pepper to taste; then, add both cheeses. Using a wooden spoon, stir constantly until the cheese has melted through. Tast, and adjust the seasoning if needed.
4. Turn the heat down to its lowest setting and stir the polenta very frequently for an additional 5–10 minutes. You’ll know it’s ready when it feels thick and heavy and is starting to pull away from the sides of the pan.
5. Scrape the polenta into your prepared tray. Using a spatula, pat it into an even layer that’s roughly 2cm thick. Top with a second sheet of baking paper and press evenly onto the surface of the polenta. Leave to cool for 30 minutes; then, transfer to the fridge and chill for at least 2–3 hours, or until firmly set.
6. While the polenta sets, prepare the tomato relish. Add the olive oil to a saucepan and place over medium heat. Once hot, add the onion slices; season well with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes, or until softened and turning translucent. Add the cumin seeds and thyme leaves and cook for 2–3 minutes more.
7. Next add the tomatoes, red wine vinegar and brown sugar, stirring to combine. Turn the heat down to its lowest setting. Cook, stirring occasionally, for roughly 20 minutes, or until the tomatoes have broken down and the relish has the texture of a thickened sauce (you can crush the tomatoes with a wooden spoon to help them along).
8. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Remove from the heat and stir through the basil leaves. Set aside.
9. Once it has set, remove the polenta from the fridge. Discard the top sheet of baking paper; carefully, flip the polenta onto a cutting board and discard the bottom sheet. Using a sharp knife, slice into even, fry-shaped pieces (my batch yielded 16 fries).
10. Add the additional dried polenta to a shallow bowl. Add the fries one at a time, turning to ensure they are evenly and lightly coated. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
11. Place a large frying pan over high heat, and add the vegetable oil (it should fully cover the base of the pan; add additional oil if needed). Heat for approximately 5 minutes, or until a small pinch of polenta starts sizzling immediately.
12. Transfer a third of the fries to the pan; take care, as they may spit. Cook for roughly 3 minutes, or until golden-brown on the bottom; using tongs, flip and cook for the same time on the reverse. The fries should be evenly golden brown, with crisp exteriors; monitor the heat as you go to ensure they don’t brown too quickly. Drain on a wire rack covered with paper towels and repeat with the remaining batches.
13. Divide the polenta fries between plates, alongside a good dollop of the tomato relish (and any other preferred aperitif snacks). Serve immediately.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our Natural Wine Killers wine subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings plus expert tasting notes for three amazing wines like this one every month (or two, if you choose our bi-monthly option).