As the summer arrives, my tastes start to change. In place of soups and stews, I reach for salads and picky bits; instead of meat, I shift to veg-heavy options, craving brightness, freshness and crunch. This seasonal shift is just as true for my beer-drinking habits. When warm weather arrives, I set aside the DIPAs and nitro stouts that saw me through the colder months and reach for the refreshing easy drinkers.
What a joy, then, to discover Kombine Unfiltered Helles, a collaboration between the Belgian brewery St Bernardus and Weihenstephaner, the Bavarian brewery known for making some of the world’s finest hefeweizen. This marks the first time St Bernardus has ever brewed a bottom-fermented beer or skipped bottle refermentation. It also embraced the challenge of using exclusively Reinheitsgebot-approved ingredients.
I’m calling it: This curious hybrid is my beer of the summer (despite its relatively punchy 6% ABV). With the refreshment and subtle hop character of a helles, but the haze, complex yeast profile and food-friendliness of a hefeweizen, it’s ideal beer garden fare, and even better alongside a meal.
After seeing aubergine schnitzels and katsus popping up on menus across London, I wanted to fry up some aubergine myself. The technique is simple: After roasting and peeling a whole aubergine, press it into a cutlet shape with a fork, then bread it and shallow fry (inspired by cook Arielle Nir Mamiye, I used a matzo meal and sesame seeds for the crispy outer layer).
To complete the meal, serve alongside a zippy side salad, featuring jarred artichoke hearts ingeniously dressed with their marinating liquid (shoutout to the Washington Post for that particular hack).
As aubergines start to come into season, this is a great way to take advantage of an impending glut. And if, like me, you find yourself eating less meat during the summer, it’s also a crowd-pleasing vegetarian option that can take you all the way through the season.
Sesame Aubergine Schnitzel With Rocket and Artichoke Salad
Adapted from Arielle Nir Mamiye and Washington Post
Serves 6
For the aubergines:
6 medium aubergines
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, to taste
100g all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
3 eggs
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
100g matzo meal (or use panko or other breadcrumbs)
100g sesame seeds
3 tablespoons za’atar
350ml vegetable oil
1 lemon
For the salad:
180g rocket
100g flat-leaf parsley, stems removed
Flaky sea salt, to taste
2 lemons
1 280g jar artichoke hearts
1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a large baking tray with baking paper. Wash and dry the aubergines. Leave the stems attached and cut a few long slits across each aubergine with a sharp knife (this will help steam escape as they cook and will make peeling them easier).
2. Arrange the aubergines in an even layer on the baking sheet. Roast for approximately 35–40 minutes, turning halfway through, or until they are softened and their skin looks darkened and wrinkly, but they are still holding their shape and aren’t falling apart. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle.
3. Peel the aubergines. Using a fork, gently press each aubergine into a cutlet shape, ensuring they remain in one piece and don’t start falling apart. Season lightly with flaky sea salt. Place on a kitchen towel and leave to drain for at least 30 minutes. Pat to dry further with paper towels.
4. Set up your frying station: Add the vegetable oil to a large frying pan (there should be enough oil in the pan to adequately shallow fry; add more if needed), and place over medium-high heat. Arrange paper towels over a wire rack and place on the counter next to the stove.
5. Meanwhile, add the flour and sea salt to a wide, shallow bowl, and mix with a fork to combine. In a second wide, shallow bowl, add the eggs and Dijon mustard, and whisk until combined. In a third, add the matzo meal or breadcrumbs, sesame seeds and za’atar, and mix to combine.
6. Test that the oil is ready for frying by adding a small pinch of the sesame mixture; it should start sizzling rapidly. When the oil is just about ready, bread your first aubergine. Holding it by the stem, lay flat in the flour mixture; flip, and ensure the reverse side is also fully coated.
7. Next, transfer to the egg bowl and repeat the gesture, ensuring both sides are fully coated in the egg mixture; allow any extra to drip off. Finally, transfer to the bowl with the matzo meal and sesame seeds. Flip, spooning over any extra mixture to ensure it is completely covered, with no gaps in the coating.
8. Carefully transfer the aubergine to the oil; use caution, as it may spit. Cook for 2–3 minutes on one side, or until golden-brown. Then – using tongs or a spatula – gently flip and cook for the same on the reverse. If the aubergine is taking longer to fry, or is browning too quickly, adjust the heat accordingly.
9. Once it is fully cooked, transfer to the paper towel-lined wire rack, and season both sides with flaky sea salt. Repeat these breading and frying steps with the remaining aubergines.
10. While the aubergines are resting, prepare the salad. In a large salad bowl, add the rocket and the parsley leaves. Season generously with flaky sea salt and quickly mix. Grate the lemons’ zest over the leaves, then squeeze over their juice.
11. Right before serving, spoon the artichoke hearts out of the jar and add to the salad, alongside a good splash of their marinating liquid (shoutout to the Washington Post for that particular hack). Toss gently to prevent the leaves from wilting. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Divide between plates.
12. To serve, divide the aubergines between plates. Squeeze over lemon juice and serve right away.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beer hound and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our HB&B All Killer No Filler beer subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings, plus expert tasting notes, with 10 world-class beers like this one every month.