Recently, a friend made chicken wings – simple, marinated with Caribbean hot sauce and fresh thyme for a few hours, thrown into the oven, then poured, juices and all, into a large bowl for sharing. They were also a revelation. Lightly charred, ultra juicy, richly flavourful – better than any other wings I’d had in recent memory.
I’ve always fried my wings, so it never occurred to me just how satisfying oven-roasted wings could be, or how suitable for a casual dinner party. And while I’m loath to tell you to turn on your oven in the middle of the summer, this method is otherwise totally faff-free.
I knew I wanted to try recreating them, but I decided to opt for a Vietnamese flavour profile once I received a bottle of Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett Trocken, a dry and fresh Riesling with herbal notes.
Riesling is an exceptionally versatile, food-friendly wine and, as Victoria Moore writes in The Wine Dine Dictionary, it “is perfectly met by the salty-sour-sweet flavours found in South-East Asian and fusion food. Its vibrant citrus soars beside the sear of fresh lime, the fire of ginger and the tang of green mango and papaya; its lively acidity is the perfect foil for the saltiness of nam pla, and its flighty energy is good with fresh coriander and lemongrass.” I needed no further inspiration.
These wings sit in a lime and fish sauce-based marinade for up to four hours before being roasted and served with an herby side salad, with a dressing that incorporates the same flavours.
Together, wings, salad and wine feel almost impossibly bright and summery – a refreshing counterpoint to the astonishing run of hot days we’ve been experiencing here in London. We ate ours in the back garden, and if you can, I’d recommend doing the same – all the better to seek some cooling breezes and drip chicken juices wantonly and without fear.
Vietnamese-Style Chicken Wings and Herby Side Salad
Loosely adapted from Kin and RecipeTinEats
Serves 4 as a main or 8 as a starter
For the chicken wings:
2kg chicken wings (preferably whole wings, not separated into flats and drumettes)
150ml lime juice (from approx. 4-5 limes)
4 tablespoons fish sauce (preferably Red Boat)
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons light soy sauce
3 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons sambal
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 1-inch piece ginger, minced
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
For the fried onion garnish:
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons flour
200ml vegetable oil
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, to taste
For the nuoc cham dressing:
50ml lime juice (from approx. 1-2 limes)
50ml fish sauce (preferably Red Boat)
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1-2 bird’s-eye chillis, minced
For the salad:
2 small or Persian cucumbers
100g mixed baby leaves
100g coriander leaves (stems discarded)
30g mint leaves (stems discarded)
20g Thai basil (stems discarded)
Flaky sea salt, to taste
200g roasted peanuts, to garnish
1. Roughly 3-4 hours before you plan to cook the wings, prepare the marinade. Add the chicken wings to a very large ziploc bag or nonreactive bowl. In a separate, smaller bowl, mix together all of the marinade ingredients; taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Add to the chicken and mix until well-coated. Transfer to the fridge and leave to marinate for up to 4 hours.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the fried onion garnish. Add the onion and flour to a medium bowl and mix until lightly coated. Add the oil to a small saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onions. Cook for 7-10 minutes, stirring frequently, or until golden-brown. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Season with flaky sea salt and leave to cool.
3. About 30 minutes before you plan to cook the chicken wings, remove them from the fridge to warm up a little. Preheat the oven to 200°C, and line a large baking tray with baking paper or foil.
4. When ready, pour the chicken wings and their marinade onto the baking tray. Arrange in a single layer, skin side up. Transfer to the oven and roast for 30-35 minutes, or until cooked through and lightly charred. Rotate halfway through to ensure they cook evenly.
5. Meanwhile, prepare the nuoc cham dressing. Add all of the ingredients to a small bowl and whisk to combine. Next, smash the two cucumbers for the salad by covering them with a paper towel and smacking with a rolling pin until broken down; break up any larger pieces with your hands or a knife. Add the cucumber pieces to the dressing and set aside.
6. Once the wings are cooked through, remove from the oven and leave to cool for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the salad. Add the leaves and herbs to a large salad bowl and season lightly with flaky sea salt. Add the peanuts, as well as half of the prepared fried onions. Toss until lightly mixed. Next, pour over the dressing and cucumbers, and toss gently with your fingertips until evenly coated. Arrange on a large serving platter or divide between individual bowls.
7. Transfer the wings to a large serving bowl or divide between individual bowls. Pour over the cooking juices and garnish with the remaining onions. Serve alongside the salad immediately.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our Natural Wine Killers wine subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings plus expert tasting notes for three amazing wines like this one every month (or two, if you choose our bi-monthly option).
