Recently, I read a quote from cookbook author Rosie Mackean (talking about her recipe for asparagus, orzo, and mozzarella salad): "As a cook and a writer, there are times when you have to lean in to the obvious, rather than rail against it for the sake of novelty. Eating familiar flavours doesn’t make them any less enjoyable, nor does it make them any less worthy as recipes.”
I’ve been guilty of this impulse to do something unexpected with seasonal ingredients, to devise novel preparations or unconventional combos. While there isn’t anything wrong with bringing creativity to the table, there’s also nothing wrong with making something that, per Mackean, has been done before and will likely be done again. In other words, ignore the inner critic that scoffs, “Asparagus for spring – ground-breaking!”
And so, asparagus for spring. I landed on a recipe from Ottolenghi that pairs asparagus with brown butter, burnt lemons and labneh. I’m never one to shy away from brown butter, but thought the recipe could be simplified and transformed from side dish to open-faced sandwich.
This resulting sourdough toast is topped with a generous swipe of labneh, plus asparagus and pistachios toasted in brown butter and finished with lemon juice and crushed chillis. It is delicious, fast, seasonal and, above all, versatile – add mint or wild garlic, swap labneh for ricotta, or pistachios for hazelnuts, or even top with a poached egg.
Speaking of simplicity, Saison Dupont is its paragon: a classic beer that stands the test of time and needs no improvement. Or I would have said that until I tried Saison Dupont Dry Hop. The addition of Styrian Wolf hops lends a bright citric note, without detracting from the qualities that made it great. And it works just as well as OG Dupont with asparagus, which can be challenging to pair, but which is perfectly offset here. It may not be radical, but this springy pairing shows the value in simple pleasures.
Asparagus, Labneh and Pistachio Toast
Loosely adapted from Ottolenghi
Serves 4
250g asparagus
Fine sea salt
80g salted butter
100g pistachio kernels, roughly chopped
1 lemon
Large pinch crushed chillis
4 thick-cut slices sourdough bread
250g labneh
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1. First, blanch the asparagus. Remove and discard the woody ends from the asparagus spears, then chop into roughly 2-inch pieces. Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil and salt generously.
2. Add the asparagus to the boiling water. Cook for 1½-2 minutes, depending on its thickness, or until green and just tender (do not overcook, as you want the asparagus to retain its crunch). Drain and run under cold water until cooled. Pat to dry and set aside.
3. Meanwhile, brown the butter. Add the butter to a medium frying pan and place over medium-low heat. As soon as it melts, add the chopped pistachio kernels. Cook, stirring frequently, for 4-5 minutes, or just until it turns a chestnut-brown colour and starts smelling nutty.
4. Turn the heat to low and immediately add the drained asparagus to the butter mixture; it may sizzle briefly. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently, or until the asparagus is warmed through. Keep a close eye to make sure the brown butter doesn’t burn.
5. When the asparagus is just warmed through, remove the frying pan from the heat. Add the zest of your lemon (save the fruit, as you’ll use the juice in a moment) and a generous pinch of the crushed chillis and mix through. Set aside.
6. Next, toast the sourdough slices.
7. To assemble the toast, slather each with the labneh. Top with the asparagus, making sure to scrape a good amount of the toasted pistachios onto each slice. Squeeze over the lemon, and garnish with flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Serve immediately.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beer hound and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our HB&B All Killer No Filler beer subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings, plus expert tasting notes, with 10 world-class beers like this one every month.