After our blazing summer, it feels like someone’s flicked a switch and plunged us suddenly into autumn.
Just as quickly, my drinking preferences have shifted. Instead of the pét nats, rosés and white wines that saw me through the preceding months, I’ve found myself reaching for red wine (ideally, one that’s bright and juicy – even crunchy). Arndorfer’s Vorgeschmack Red 2024, which hails from the Kamptal region of Austria and is a blend of Zweigelt and Pinot Noir, is just that wine. With notes of cherry and cranberry, the merest hint of forest-floor earthiness and an almost mouthwatering character, it’s the late-summer/early-autumn bottle of my dreams.
Thinking about a food pairing, I reflected on the wine’s Austrian origin and my thoughts turned to spaetzle. If you’re intimidated by the idea of making pasta at home, then think of dumpling-like spaetzle (“little sparrows”) as pasta on easy mode. To make them, simply whisk up a thick egg batter, get a pan of boiling water going and add the batter in small droplets to the water, where it will form its distinctive shape. While official spaetzle makers exist for this purpose, you can just as easily use a colander or a cheese grater with large holes instead.
After cooking for a few minutes, the spaetzle are drained and fried. Then, to make what is essentially an Austrian take on mac and cheese, they’re mixed with Gruyère and Emmental, plus cream. To give them an autumnal feel (and provide a savoury element to play off against the wine’s red-fruit notes), I mixed in mushrooms and caramelised onions.
It might seem early for baked pasta; by the time you read this, we could be back in a final burst of summer weather before the seasons really change. But after months of heat and sweat, I’m happy to get a jump start on the season – especially when I’ve got such a wonderful wine, and a bowl of pure comfort food, to accompany it.
Cheese and Mushroom Spaetzle
Loosely adapted from Food52
Serves 6-8
For the spaetzle:
320g all-purpose flour
100g whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons fine sea salt, plus additional for cooking
1 teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground white pepper (or use black pepper)
4 medium eggs
350ml whole milk
For the final dish:
1 large yellow onion
400g mushrooms (I used
a mix of chestnuts and shiitakes)
Vegetable oil
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
Freshly ground black pepper
150g Gruyère
150g Emmental
150ml double cream
Chives, to garnish
1. First, make the spaetzle batter. In a large mixing bowl, add both flours, the salt, nutmeg and pepper; whisk to combine. In a separate small bowl, crack and lightly whisk the eggs. Pour them into the flour mixture, alongside the milk, and whisk until the batter is completely smooth. Place a tea towel over the bowl and set aside.
2. Next, prepare the vegetables. Peel and thinly slice a yellow onion. Scrub the mushrooms to remove any dirt, then discard the stems and slice thinly.
3. Place a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over medium-high heat. Add just enough vegetable oil to cover the base. Once hot, add the onion slices. Fry for 7-10 minutes – using tongs to flip them regularly and adjusting the heat so they don’t darken too quickly – or until golden-brown. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate, and season with flaky sea salt.
4. Next, turn the heat to medium-high/high. Add half of the mushroom slices to the pan in a single layer (be sure not to crowd the pan, so they can brown adequately). Cook for 3-4 minutes, or until deep golden-brown. Flip, and cook for a similar time on the reverse. Transfer to the same plate as the onions, and season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining mushrooms (add any additional oil if needed). After cooking, leave any remaining oil in the pan, and set aside for later.
5. Next, remove and discard the rinds from the Gruyère or Emmental, then grate. Add both cheese to a large mixing bowl and mix to combine. Pour over the cream and set aside.
6. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, and season well with fine sea salt. Once it is boiling rapidly, make the spaetzle: If not using a spaetzle maker, position a cheese grater or colander with large holes over the water (ideally it should sit securely on top of the pan). Spoon half of the batter over your chosen implement in several stages, using a spatula to press it through the holes and into the boiling water.
7. Cook the spaetzle in the boiling water for 5–8 minutes, or until they float to the top and are fully cooked through. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a lightly oiled bowl and leave to cool. Repeat with the remaining half of the batter.
8. Place the frying pan that you cooked the mushrooms in over medium heat; if there is not much oil left, add another tablespoon or two. Once hot, add the spaetzle. Cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently so they don’t stick, or until warmed and lightly toasted.
9. Next, mix the reserved fried onions and mushrooms through the spaetzle. Add the cheese and cream mixture, and stir through gently until the cheese has melted and is fully incorporated. 10. Transfer the frying pan to the oven and turn the grill setting to high. Grill for 5-10 minutes, or until the spaetzle is crispy and golden-brown on top. Remove from the oven and garnish with finely chopped chives. Divide between plates or bowls and serve.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our Natural Wine Killers wine subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings plus expert tasting notes for three amazing wines like this one every month (or two, if you choose our bi-monthly option).
