We've entered the time of year when turning on the oven feels like death; when the heat makes any kitchen project that takes more than 30 minutes unbearable. Right now,...
The first time I tried Christian Binner's Si Rose, I laughed involuntarily. The wine was hard to believe. For weeks I'd been meaning to open it, tempted by its eye-candy...
One of the best podcasts I've listened to during quarantine is Home Cooking, a four-part series hosted by Samin Nosrat (author of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat) and Hrishikesh Hirway (best...
If there’s anything an indefinite lockdown scenario proves, it’s the importance of routine. In the absence of outdoor activity, self-imposed structure is the armature on which my weeks are now...
The world is short on joy right now. Even basic tasks – going grocery shopping, picking up a bottle of wine, cooking dinner – are freighted with anxiety and uncertainty....
The thing is, it still isn’t spring. Not for a couple more weeks, and presumably those will be grey and rain-saturated like all the rest of this mild and humid...
Baked pasta is the fuzzy pyjamas of food. Baked pasta is staying in all day and night, and finding a warm place on your sofa, and not caring about how...
There are plenty of traditional nibbles that show up during New Year's celebrations: blinis with caviar, smoked salmon canapés, dips aplenty. This winter, I say keep that festivity going...
I’m always looking for ways to do the holidays differently. Ham is predictable. Turkey – unless it’s deep-fried – can be dry and disappointing. Roasting beef to everyone’s specifications is...
Recently, I happened upon a Twitter thread decrying those who would label orange wine as a “trend”. As Stephen Satterfield of Whetstone Magazine puts it, the style of wine has...
There’s a lot you can say about September, and about its obvious superiority to all the other months. August’s blistering heat has been replaced by a subtle crispness in...
Riesling is tragically misunderstood. Drinkers often avoid ordering it, assuming it is always sweet, though there are many delicious, dry Rieslings on the market. The impenetrability of the German-language terminology...
This dessert had two inspirations. One was Instagram – specifically, a photo taken at Paris restaurant Cheval d’Or, which showed a scattering of strawberries on a stoneware plate, drizzled with...