I love winter food. The hearty stews and braises, brothy noodles, warming curries, all those root vegetables and citrus fruits… There’s no better time to hold a steaming bowl of...
I am overjoyed to report that baking season is finally back. Turning on your oven is no longer a misery – actually, as it heats up your kitchen and fills...
Listen, I know it's been a summer of heatwaves – maybe you're in the middle of one while you're reading this. You might be propped in front of your fan, or out...
If I am guilty of one thing every spring, it is of losing my shit over the annual return of wild garlic. I’m aware that I make a slightly parodic...
Some of the very best things are simple. Sun on a winter morning after weeks of rain. A well-made cup of coffee, served at exactly the right temperature. Dinner with good friends....
The first time I ever had borscht, it was at Veselka in New York City, it was 2am, and it was snowing. Veselka is a downtown institution, a Ukrainian restaurant that’s been serving NYU...
In her recent book, Cook, Eat, Repeat, Nigella Lawson shares “a defence of brown food”, both a celebration of unlovely-looking but joyous-tasting stews and braises, and a rebuttal against the high-gloss...
Recently, I came across food writer Diana Henry’s paean to “sofa suppers” – those dishes where there’s “everything in a bowl, no extra relishes or anything, and you only need...
I love whites and rosés and pét nats in the summer as much as anyone, but I’m also a strong believer in the perfection of a chilled red when the sun...
I’ll begin with a controversial statement: To me, most French fries – chips – are… not great. Sure, there are always those first few transcendent fries in the bag, the...
Weekends right now are strange. For me, they’ve become long, often empty blocks of time, flattened without the normal pace of pubs, get-togethers with pals and general hubbub. Now, instead...
When I started writing this column, the January blues were crashing into spiralling COVID-19 case numbers and deeper lockdowns, but I took hope from the fact that there is surely...
In my early days of learning about wine, Pinot Noir intrigued me from the start. There was its fickleness, its delicacy: thin-skinned Pinot is sublime in good years, but can...