Lately, I’ve been thinking about the main courses we serve during the holidays: the enormous bronze turkeys, the resplendently glazed hams, the hearty legs of lamb, even the occasional goose...
I wasn’t supposed to do any more cooking – especially not baking. It was the week before moving house and the plan was to eat through the last of our...
I am overjoyed to report that baking season is finally back. Turning on your oven is no longer a misery – actually, as it heats up your kitchen and fills...
It feels fitting that Ovum Big Salt Orange Rosé’s colour is best described as “sunset”. After months of blaze and heat, we are undeniably at summer’s end, all that heat...
Listen, I know it's been a summer of heatwaves – maybe you're in the middle of one while you're reading this. You might be propped in front of your fan, or out...
In his book Summer’s Lease, chef and writer Thom Eagle waxes lyrical about the food of summer, about gluts of peaches and raspberries giving way to cherries. This season is...
Seasonal transitions are my favourite time of year, and I love it as spring slowly and inexorably flows like warm syrup into the humid and fecund days of June. The...
Alongside gumbo and jambalaya, shrimp étouffée is a stalwart of Cajun and Creole cooking, and a classic New Orleans dish. Étouffée means “smothered” in French, and in this dish, pink...
If I am guilty of one thing every spring, it is of losing my shit over the annual return of wild garlic. I’m aware that I make a slightly parodic...
Some of the very best things are simple. Sun on a winter morning after weeks of rain. A well-made cup of coffee, served at exactly the right temperature. Dinner with good friends....
The first time I ever had borscht, it was at Veselka in New York City, it was 2am, and it was snowing. Veselka is a downtown institution, a Ukrainian restaurant that’s been serving NYU...
In her recent book, Cook, Eat, Repeat, Nigella Lawson shares “a defence of brown food”, both a celebration of unlovely-looking but joyous-tasting stews and braises, and a rebuttal against the high-gloss...
Pizza parties, taco parties, bagel-and-lox parties… If you ask me, there’s no better dinner (or brunch) party format than “food item you create and customise yourself from a spread of...