Recently, I had the pleasure of editing a Pellicle Magazine piece by cookbook author and chef Tim Anderson, all about London’s matcha boom. Matcha lattes are everywhere now, he writes – not just sold in independent coffee shops, but also at chains from Starbucks to Greggs. He’s also spotted matcha in supermarket products ranging from overnight oats and ice cream to body wash. Matcha is, in a word, inescapable.
But with all the attention matcha is getting, it’s easy to overlook other Japanese teas – like hojicha. If you’ve never had hojicha, it’s worth seeking it out. I’ve enjoyed it at Japanese tea room Katsute, both as loose-leaf tea or stirred, in powdered form, into white hot chocolate. Where matcha is green and grassy, hojicha is nutty and toasty, with subtle caramel notes.
Feeling inspired to shine a spotlight on hojicha, I took inspiration from Katsute’s hot chocolate and turned it into this simple but special-feeling mousse. Borrowing blogger Molly Yeh’s idea for a white chocolate base, I swapped out matcha powder for hojicha (this one's a good bet) and added a dash of freshly grated nutmeg and flaky sea salt for depth.
After the melted chocolate and hojicha base is mixed with vanilla-scented whipped cream, the mousse is chilled and served with a tangy dollop of crème fraîche, more freshly grated nutmeg and a few blood orange segments, now that they’re nearing the end of their season. The result is both novel and comforting – rich and bright enough for this transitional time of year.
As a seasonal beer drinker, I gravitate towards dark beers in colder weather (spring is certainly taking a break as I write this). Baron’s aptly named Augustus Gloop Porter is a good pick for right now. At 4.8%, it’s not excessively strong, but still has enough body to match this dessert. I like how the blood orange lifts its chocolate notes, while the roastiness serves as a foil to the mousse’s sweetness. Soon, spring will properly arrive, and with it my craving for lighter beers (and matcha lattes). Until then, there’s no better time to enjoy a touch of the darker side.
Hojicha White Chocolate Mousse
Adapted from Molly Yeh
Serves 4
For the mousse:
1 ½ teaspoons powdered hojicha (not whole-leaf)
500ml double cream, divided
120g white chocolate (I used Green & Black’s)
¼ teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
Large pinch flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
To serve:
Crème fraîche
1 blood orange
1. First, sieve the powdered hojicha into a large, heat-safe bowl. (You will be using this for a double boiler, so make sure it sits snugly on top of your saucepan.) Add 3 tablespoons of double cream and whisk until there are no clumps of hojicha remaining. Next, add 2 more tablespoons of cream and whisk well; you should have a thick dark paste.
2. Using a large knife (I find a bread knife works well), finely chop the white chocolate and transfer to the bowl with the hojicha. Add the nutmeg and flaky sea salt.
3. Fill your saucepan with roughly 1 inch of water and bring to a simmer. Place your bowl on top of the saucepan, ensuring its base doesn’t touch the water. Whisk frequently, or until the white chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth and thick. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes.
4. In a separate large bowl, add the remainder of the double cream. Using an electric whisk, beat until stiff peaks form. Add the vanilla bean paste or extract, and beat just until combined.
5. Once the white chocolate mixture is cool to the touch, add half of the whipped cream and stir to combine. Next, add the remaining half. Using a large spatula, gently fold the cream into the hojicha mixture, being careful not to knock the air out of it.
6. Divide the mousse mixture between four glasses or ramekins. Cover each with cling film and transfer to the fridge. Chill for at least 2 hours, or until set.
7. Remove the mousse from the fridge 15 minutes before serving. Top each with a dollop of crème fraîche, an additional grating of nutmeg, and a segment or two of blood orange.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beer hound and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our HB&B All Killer No Filler beer subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings, plus expert tasting notes, with 10 world-class beers like this one every month.
