It’s hard to know what to cook right now. March can be a fatiguing month of in-betweens and not-yets, and that’s even more true this year.
I usually like to distract myself with complex recipes that require 20 steps and plenty of chopping, but I’ve found it hard to muster the energy for that kind of project cooking at the moment. Instead, I’m seeking out dishes that are quick to make but overdeliver on big flavours and comfort. Recently, I remembered a recipe from Lebanese-Australian chef Karima-Chloe Hazim for Macarona Bi Laban. It’s a simple pasta dish featuring a Greek yoghurt and garlic sauce, plus a topping of ghee-toasted pine nuts; she says it’s what she makes when she doesn’t feel like cooking.
This adaptation adds on a few ingredients and steps, but it all still comes together quickly. My additions include caramelised onions (fried and ready in just 10 minutes, rather than slow-cooked). Instead of ghee, the pine nuts are toasted in brown butter, then mixed with tomato purée for added depth. The pasta is garnished with a pinch of sumac, za’atar and fresh mint or parsley leaves. The results really are something special: tangy, warming, creamy, sweet, crunchy, salty – everything good in just one plate. The dish has already become an all-time favourite and weekday staple. And I like it even more because it works so well with Edgar Brutler’s Drum Bun.
Drum Bun is a deliciously approachable orange wine. Hailing from Romania, it is soft and full, featuring irresistible honey notes and a bright, peachy character. It’s easy to drink on its own, but that honeyed quality also plays beautifully off the yoghurt, while harmonising with the sweetness of the onions and the toasty toffee notes of the pine nuts.
Together, this is a pairing that feels right for March: comforting but not heavy, complex but not effortful, and perfect to curl up with on the sofa whenever circumstances demand.
Greek Yoghurt Pasta with Tomato Pine Nuts and Caramelised Onions
Loosely adapted from Karima-Chloe Hazim
Serves 4-6
For the caramelised onions:
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 large onions, thinly sliced
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the pine nut topping:
100g pine nuts
50g salted butter
4-5 tablespoons triple-concentrated tomato purée
For the pasta:
500g short pasta (I used mezzi rigatoni)
Fine sea salt, to taste
500g full-fat Greek yoghurt
To garnish:
Sumac
Za’atar
Fresh mint or parsley
1. First, caramelise the onions. Add enough vegetable oil to a Dutch oven or other large pan until it covers the bottom, up to roughly ¾ inch. Place over high heat. Once hot, add a single onion piece to test; it should start sizzling vigorously. Add the remaining onions and turn the heat down to medium-high.
2. Fry the onions for 7–10 minutes, stirring frequently, or until deep golden-brown (turn down the temperature if they darken too quickly). Transfer to a bowl or plate lined with paper towels, and season with flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Remove the pot from the heat; discard the oil and wipe clean.
3. Next, prepare the pine nut topping. Add the butter to a small frying pan and place over medium-low heat. As soon as it melts, add the pine nuts. Cook for roughly 5–7 minutes, stirring frequently, or until the butter foams up, turns a rich brown colour, and smells nutty. As soon as it browns, add the tomato purée and mix through. Add enough hot water to thin it out, stirring frequently, or just until the topping is loose enough to spoon over. Remove from the heat and set aside.
4. Next, cook the pasta. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and salt well. Add the pasta and cook according to package instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving at least 300ml or so of the cooking water.
5. Return your Dutch oven to the stove and place over low heat. Add the Greek yoghurt, as well as 150ml of the reserved pasta cooking water to start; whisk until uniform. Keep adding water until it has a thick, saucy consistency.
6. Next, add the pasta and the caramelised onions, mixing with a wooden spoon until evenly combined and coated in sauce. Add any additional pasta water if needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.
7. Divide the pasta between bowls or plates, and top each serving with a good amount of the tomato and pine nut mixture. Garnish each with sumac and za’atar, to taste, and finish with the fresh herbs. Serve right away.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our Natural Wine Killers wine subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings plus expert tasting notes for three amazing wines like this one every month (or two, if you choose our bi-monthly option).
