As much as the unrelenting grey of February calls for hearty stews, rich curries and stodgy pasta bakes, I think we need as much brightness as we can get at this dour time of year.
I’ve often found myself craving fresher flavours in mid-winter, from Vietnamese-inspired meatballs to temaki handrolls and ceviche. So when I heard that a bottle of Celler Batlliu de Sort Aulesa Riesling Pet Nat was on its way to me, my thoughts immediately turned to seafood and Southeast Asian flavours. Riesling is a natural fit for both, and I began planning a zesty larb, or Thai lettuce cups, to accompany it.
But then I considered the bubbles and adjusted my plans. Sparkling wine is such a great choice to accompany fried food – consider the iconic, high-low pairing of Champagne and fried chicken – because its bubbles have a scrubbing effect on the palate, tempering any oiliness and salt. Ultimately, I decided to stick with seafood and Southeast Asian flavours, but to deep-fry instead.
These Vietnamese–inspired prawn fritters are the result. Rather than pancakey or ultra-crisp, they are almost doughnut-like in their lightness (though they still come packed with juicy prawn pieces). All you need to do is make a thick batter – here, it’s flavoured with aromatics like spring onions and coriander leaves, plus turmeric, chilli and white pepper – and drop dollops of it into a pan of hot oil. After a few minutes, the fritters emerge puffed-up, golden-brown and ready to devour. Alongside the fritters, I made a quick nuoc chom dipping sauce; with its base of lime juice and fish sauce, it’s a perfect way to take the flavours to the next level. I also flash-fried Thai basil leaves as a vibrant garnish.
And then there’s that Catalonian Riesling pet nat. With its vibrant carbonation, bright notes of apple and pear and citric freshness, it perfectly complements the fritters. A surefire antidote to these endless rainy, grey days.
Vietnamese-Inspired Prawn Fritters
Serves 2-4 as a light bite
For the fritters:
360g raw king prawns
½ bunch coriander leaves and stems, finely chopped
3-4 spring onions, finely chopped
1 thumb-sized piece ginger, minced
1 bird’s-eye chilli, minced
100g self-raising flour
50g cup potato starch
1 tablespoon fish sauce (I highly recommend Red Boat)
½ tablespoon caster sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
¼ teaspoon turmeric
110ml water
1 large egg, beaten
Vegetable oil, for frying
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, to garnish
1 bunch Thai basil leaves
For the nuoc cham sauce:
Juice of 1 lime
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons caster sugar
½ tablespoon rice vinegar
1 bird’s-eye chilli, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1. First, prep the prawn fritters. Remove any shells and devein the prawns, if preferred. Roughly chop (I cut each prawn into 3-4 pieces).
2. Add the chopped prawns to a large bowl, alongside the coriander leaves and stems, spring onions, ginger and chilli; give everything a quick mix with a large spoon. Next, add the flour and potato starch, fish sauce, sugar, salt and spices, and mix to combine.
3. Add the water and beaten egg to the prawn mixture, and stir well, until fully combined and all the flour has been incorporated. You should have a thick batter.
4. Next, prep the nuoc cham dipping sauce. Add all the ingredients to a small bowl or ramekin, and set aside.
5. Get ready to fry the fritters. Fill a large saucepan with roughly 3-4 inches of vegetable oil and place over high heat. Heat until it reaches 180°C (I used a deep-fat frying thermometer to gauge the temperature). Meanwhile, as the oil heats, place several paper towels under a large wire rack and set near the stove.
6. Once the oil has reached temperature, test it by cooking one fritter. You can use a regular dinner spoon to drop a roughly ping-pong-ball-sized scoop of batter into the oil (an ice cream scoop with a release handle also works well). Cook for roughly 4-5 minutes, using tongs to flip occasionally, or until the fitter is golden-brown and firm. Transfer to the wire rack and season with flaky sea salt while still hot.
7. Next, cook the remaining fritters in batches (I was able to cook 5–6 at a time in my pan). If you like, transfer your cooked fritters to an oven on low heat to keep them warm while you prepare the rest.
8. To make the optional fried basil leaves garnish, wash and thoroughly dry the basil leaves. Carefully add to the oil in several batches, but take caution, as they may spit vigorously for a few seconds when added to the oil. Cook for 30 seconds, until darkened and crisp; then, transfer using tongs or a slotted spoon to the wire rack and leave to cool.
9. To serve, divide the fritters between plates, alongside the ramekin of nuoc cham and your fried basil leaf garnish, if using. Serve right away, while still hot.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our Natural Wine Killers wine subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings plus expert tasting notes for three amazing wines like this one every month (or two, if you choose our bi-monthly option).
